Monday, April 20th, 2009
All along I had planned to leave home for the Pigeon River Country on Wednesday, April 22nd. Earth day. Then I heard my wife say "Are you leaving on Monday?" I left Monday the 20th at 5:00am. None to soon for me. After the long winter months it was great to hit the road and head for "The Playground." My playground. I had never seen the campsite I had planned with the group in mind. It was not my first choice by any means, but I was sure there would be plenty of firewood close at hand, and one could make this site in two wheel drive.
Wolverine is a one horse town without a single traffic light. My type of town for sure. I arrived at 8:50am. I had in mind to ask around about a report from last fall in the Green Timbers area of the forest. First stop the general store on main street. I asked my vague and carefully worded question. " I heard a story about two boys that saw something strange at Green Timbers last fall, have you heard about that?" Of the three, a man, the owner and two female workers one replied. No, she said and the others said nothing. The other lady looked at me in a way that made me feel like she had something to say, but did not speak up. I was handed the change from my unnecessary purchase and left, heading for Rocky's Roadhouse. As I jaywalked to Rocky's I saw an old timer on the street. No cars or any other people, just this guy that slowed his gate for the out-of-towner he seemed to want to talk to. It didn't take long for me to ask Billy Bob, that's right his name was really Billy Bob, my question and I asked him exactly the same way I had asked the folks in the general store. I no more than got the question out of my mouth and Billy Bob comes back with "Ya mean Bigfoot?" I told him I didn't know what they had seen and he cut me off saying he had not heard about it.
Just then the owner of Rocky's stepped out the front door of the roadhouse and joined in. We talked for a bit about fishing and I said "I need some coffee" We all went in the roadhouse. Steve told me that he bought the roadhouse last fall. I asked about the wolverine mount I had hoped to photograph and he explained it left with the previous owner. What a shame. It was the largest wolverine ever trapped.
So we sat there at the bar drinking coffee. The moment came for my question to Steve. Billy Bob had said nothing in regard to my question so, once again I asked it of Steve in the exact same way as I had the others. Believe it or not he replied "You mean Bigfoot?" And I said yes. He had not heard the story, but had one of his own. After three cups of coffee and a good chat I said it was time for me to move on. Steve said "No charge for the coffee, it's on me." Billy Bob said he'd give Steve a discount on some night crawlers and away I went.
It was dark and raining much of my trip north. The morning light was welcome as the rain cut back some too. I went up the hill from the river in town, across I-75 to the Wolverine exit store. Hilltop I think the name is, and checked the oil in my 4x4 truck. Gas and oil and I was on my way into the forest. As I hit the edge of the forest it was finally time once again to drive slow, very slow as I always do so I'm able to take it all in. Looking for elk, deer, bear and all the other critters I've seen at one time or another in this forest. I see a new bridge in place at the Little Pigeon River and it looked like it had cost some big dollars to build. Nice for sure. I liked the old bridge more. Things do change over the years. What other changes will I see I wondered. Not many I hoped as I made my way east on Webb rd. to the whispering pines.
"Under the whispering pines" is the name we had for the deer camp I enjoyed in years, and with friends now long gone. Good times. Driving slowly I looked for the old camp and somehow missed it as I came up to Red Bridge on the Pigeon River. Just before the bridge I saw tracks in the road. It was still raining and the tracks went across the road from swamp land to more of the same. I stopped the truck, looked down at the tracks. Strange indeed and in the rain! Not another soul around as best I could tell. Boots? Footprints? I just don't know.
I had been concerned about the hill I was about to climb. This being only my second run with my new used truck camper. Up and over, no big deal. Sometimes I worry to much. On to camp. I had seen a large clear cut aways back. A change I was to learn to enjoy later.
A short time later I made camp. Plenty of firewood close at hand just as planned. After putting things in place I picked up the book BH loaned me, a book I had started to read just days before. Where Bigfoot Walks by Robert Michael Pyle. I read, took a nap, and read again.
After supper I took a walk, looked around and was back in camp before dark. No fire and to bed. I wondered what the night would bring.
Smokebender
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
After a good nights sleep I woke well before the sunrise. No clock in the camper, and I stopped wearing my watch years ago. Then, and to use a line from an old story I like, "I cooked coffee" Nothing more for breakfast, just coffee, my book and then a few minutes of classical music from the Coleman crank radio. Great little radio and it has a small solar panel along with the crank. I do enjoy my toys. My field glasses and camera were in the truck cab and at the ready. At this point with more than 24 hours before others were to join me, I decided to roam. I threw the steps in the camper and the tranny in low. South on Clearing rd. to Tin Bridge and took a right. The first of only two right turns in what I later called the left turn loop.
Cornwall Flooding was my first stop. Not far from the camp and on the way I saw a lone turkey, young and small, a jake I do believe. It would not be the last time I would see this same bird as things turned out. I was alone at the flooding, and that was just fine with me. Now for some fishing. I walked the shoreline casting and looking for sign. I knew the ice was not long gone from the lake. On my way into the forest I had seen large snowbank remnants not long for this world. No fish, not even a bite. I hadn't fished long before getting hungry. I grabbed some cheese and crackers and one of the salmon patties my wife had made for me. It made a mighty fine lakeside breakfast in the early morning light. I glassed the shoreline from the table, and out the camper door as I ate. More coffee and then I was off on foot, camera in hand. Shortly after and for the first time after entering the forest I was able to use my cell phone. I called my wife to let her know I was still alive. She seemed pleased. My laptop would not work and I had real mixed feelings on that. I'm not even sure I like being able to use a cell phone in the forest, but I must say, it did come in handy later on. Back on the road, through the water that flowed over the road, pasted Grass Lake to the Devils Soup Bowl.
The Devils Soup Bowl is a small sink hole lake. One of several in this forest. Some of these lakes were closed off to people for many years as they were being studied. Now they are open and some have been stocked with trout. These lakes are almost perfectly round with very steep high banks all the way around. A sight to see as they are unusual to say the least.
Moving on to Pickerel Lake rd. and pasted the campground of the same name. Then to E. Sturgeon Valley rd. and yet another left turn.
Next I found myself at the Pigeon Bridge Campground. I stopped there just after noon and popped a cold beer. I stood there at the river remembering the canoe trip I lead down this unmaintained stretch of river, the wildest run of my life. After "surfing" over beaver dams and around some wicked log jams we had camped for the night, to do it all again the next day. It was truly dangerous and great fun. The cold beer I drank tasted like more. I killed that idea (well that's my story) and moved on. Next stop, the PRCSF DNR HQ to recover some prints.
They were just about to start some big meeting in the HQ when I pulled in. I had learned days before that after over 15 years they no longer wanted to display some of my photography work and I was there to recover it. No luck as they were to busy to do the right thing. Some guy took my name and number, then rushed off to his meeting. As I left I overheard someone say that they wanted the forest "to be the kind of place where the cell phone doesn't work" and I'm thinking, to late boys, the cats out of the bag. The paste is out of the tube. See ya later.
I was now on my way to the elk field back near the MBG camp. I backed in, jumped out grabbed my second or was it... anyway, a beer.
I was heating some clam chowder on the truck camper stove when an elderly couple pulled up next to me. As I sat on the steps drinking my beer I hoped they would ask me "what time do the elk come out?" They did not ask. They looked around and left straight away. After lunch I took a nap with the idea to wake up at 1/4 after. Not everyone knows that's when the elk come out. (BH and RN now know)
Naturally it was 1/4 after when I woke up. No elk. Oh well next time I thought and headed the truck back to camp. On the way in I put out the MBG turn here sign and again saw the turkey I'd seen when I had left Clearing rd. that morning. Another "cold camp" meaning no fire.
I read my book, had a good dinner, listen to the radio and went to bed some hours after sundown. It was a good day in the forest.
Smokebender
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Earth Day, and once again I was awake long before first light. Another cold night outside, but warm in the truck camper as the furnace served me well. I'm careful to keep the camper vented at all times. I'd hate to wake up and find myself dead. Two days of rain, but not this morning. This morning it's snow. Coffee and donuts is the breakfast of champions. The cold stillness of the forest was strange after all the rain. Good weather to have just prior to a large campfire and that's just what I had in mind for tonight. Today Mick and Sass plan to join me. I'll need to prepare. First it's back to bed for a little more shut eye.
I'm awake for the second time and now the clock on the truck dash reads 7:43am. I grabbed my shovel and camp chair from the cab, stepped over the large long log just behind my truck and began to dig a fire pit. In next to no time I had a right smart hole in the ground. I was all proud of myself, it don't take much, and there I sat in my camp chair admiring the hole. Next I broke twigs from the limbs of the long dead log as I recalled Steve's story from the roadhouse coffee hour.
He told us, Billy Bob and me, of a fearless hunting dog he had once owned. Explaining that the dog had no fear of bears and the like, totally fearless at all times. Well you know already, as I did at the time where this story is goin, but I'll tell it again anyhow. Steve lives on Webb road and one day he and "fearless" were hunting in the forest near my old deer camp. Something large started moving about in the brush around them. Close but never in sight. Right off the bat "fearless" becomes scared so badly he began shaking. Then and in a hurry "fearless" runs to stand and shake between Steve's legs. "I've never seen anything like it" Steve said. The look on Steve's face told me his story was true. He went on to tell us of this overpowering feeling of dread and fear that came over him and he and "fearless" went back to Steve's truck in record time. Then he told us "That's it. I didn't see anything and I didn't smell anything". I recall thinking it was interesting that he said he did not smell anything. I had not asked any questions during the story.
With the fire ready to light my thinking turned to mushrooms and sheds. I went for a walk looking for sheds and sign and all I found were squirrels. Every type of squirrel on God's green earth lives in this forest and over the next few days I would see them all. Others being due to hit camp around noon, I lit the campfire and kicked back.
I was bending smoke as promised when Mick and Sass rolled into camp. It was very good to see them both again. We kicked and stoked the fire all the while talking. Sass cooked us all buffalo burgers and life was good. The rest of the day raced by as we talked and enjoyed the fire. Cricket the squirrel dog added her own fun. Another good day in the forest.
Smokebender
Thursday, April 23, 2009
It was after sunrise when I made it to my feet. I had stayed up late last night, comparatively. The weather is better this morning. No rain and a much higher temp. The forest floor still wet from yesterdays light snow. The sunlight on it's early angle is bouncing through the trees. Mick, Sass and Cricket had spent the night in their van. They seem no worse for wear. Cricket ran around camp chasing squirrels as Sass most kindly cooked us breakfast. Bacon, eggs and coffee. It was great and so was the look on Sass's face when I suggested we save the bacon grease. "Nelson will be here tonight. We plan to use him for bait. If we rub this bacon grease on his shirt it will help" I told her. Sass just smiled.
I had watched as they fashioned green wood knocking sticks. We put them to use against a large live pine tree near the campfire. The sound was strong and stout. No replies. Mick had suggested a road trip to look around the forest. We jumped in the van and headed out. At Cornwall Flooding we saw an eagle and spoke with a group of fisherman perplexed by the lack of action. Not one fish so far that day for their group. I think the fish were still down in the deepest water at the time. Other points of interest were one of the sink hole lakes and the DNR office. This time, at the office I was able to recover one of my three framed prints that had been on display for many years. The other two prints just went south I guess. This my second visit to the DNR office, and as we pulled out I had yet to ask about the tower. A tall all metal tower I had climbed some 20 years back. The tower some of us would look for later in the week. Just south of the elk field, not far from camp, we checked out fresh elk tracks crossing the road. Two sets, a cow with little one in tow I would say.
At some point I'm sure I told my elk field story. I rarely miss the chance so here I go again. The fall is the best time to view the elk. The DNR plants fields for them near turnouts. One fall I was set up to photograph the elk. At this time of year many people pass through the forest looking for elk. I like people, but the question was always the same and quickly grew old. "What time do the elk come out" the flatlanders would ask. I decided to have some fun. "About 1/4 after" I would reply no matter the time of day. Many would then look at their watches to determine if they had time to wait. Some would leave after just arriving. It was rare, but when I was asked the standard follow up question, "1/4 after what" I would reply "1/4 after whenever they damn well feel like it" Most enjoyed the humor. Some did not. So now you all know what time the elk come out. If you forget feel free to ask me.
Earlier when we had pulled off Clearing road, we noticed the MBG turn here sign had been moved. Someone had moved it a short distance down Tin Bridge rd. and placed it near the shoulder, pointing the way up a different two track. An empty beer can sat next to the sign. Mick stopped the van, I grabbed the sign and the can and I replaced the sign as we returned to camp. A late lunch of buffalo burgers was tasty indeed. We made plans for the next day and were all around the fire once again when Nelson pulled into to camp.
It was early evening and we had enjoyed more of Sass's cooking when Nelson arrived. After greetings Nelson set to work putting up his tent and cutting firewood with his chainsaw. We had all the wood we needed in short order. Night came and we all talked around a great campfire, knocking from time to time. Plans were made for the next day. This too a good day in the forest.
Smokebender
Friday, April 24, 2009
Everyone was up and at em before my boots hit the ground this morning. I was somewhat embarrassed to have slept so late. I feel weak after the long winter, just to much sitting around. With spring comes new energy and I know I will get stronger as the days go by.
Campfires always smell good to me and this morning was no exception. Coffee, I need coffee. I'm thinking about the morning plan and the fact that two more members will be joining us tonight. Mick and Sass plan to leave today. They have work they need to do. For a time we will be two, Nelson and myself.
Last night Mick had an idea to try out today. They would go out from camp and do some knocking. The point of leaving camp was to give us all an opportunity to judge the sound distance. Sass, Mick and Cricket left camp with a radio. As Mick had most likely hoped for, this turned out to be a educational exercise for all of us. For me, and this surprised me, the knocking sound seemed much more distant than it really was. Mick would knock and Sass would tell us their estimated distance from camp. This for me was a worthwhile lesson.
We said goodbye to Mick, Sass and Cricket and they left us in the early afternoon. Around this same time Nelson and I left in his 4x4 truck and ended up doing the exact same left turn loop drive I had done alone earlier in the week. The roads were somewhat of a challenge making it that much more fun. It's down right hot today. It felt to me to be 75 degrees or more. Nelson agreed. Again we saw the turkey. We both enjoy the ride, two old hands when it comes to two trackin. Seeing the eagle at Cornwall was a bonus. No fish would bite.
It came time to eat and I shared my buffalo burgers with Nelson, just as Mick and Sass had shared theirs with me. Nelson had never eaten Bison meat before and said that he like it. This was not to be our last good meal. Nelson's chili and goulash dishes were second to none.
We made sure the turn here sign was in place because soon Brian and Dave would be due in. It seemed like mid afternoon when Brian made camp. It was good to see him again. Brian pitched his tent just across the road. Road? Two track or trail is more like it. Now it was time to have a drink or two and kick the fire for awhile. Nelson shared his massive pot of goulash with us and after we were all off to the elk field. No one asked the elk question. These guys are to smart for that. We must have left the elk field before 1/4 after, no elk tonight. Before leaving the field Dave called me. He was unable to join us as planned. I felt bad for him because I knew how much he had wanted to be here. Next time Dave. Back at camp we revived the fire, kicked back and enjoyed a cold beer along with one of Brian's mighty fine cigars.
I had not smoked a cigar here in this forest for over 15 years. That one cigar brought back a great many good memories of deer camp days.
As I sat there taking in the smoke, beer and campfire, Brian told us a story of a letter he had received as a boy. A wonderful story, and one only Brian should tell. It's after dark now. Time to go to work. Time for Brian's call blasting system to be put into play. This should be good.
My hip was hurting so the plan came down like this. Brian and Nelson would walk the system west, then north, blasting and knocking at intervals. Brian would blast and Nelson would knock. Brian gave me one of his radios so we could periodically communicate as they made their way into the dark of night. Believe me it was dark. I had tried in the planing stage for a full moon outing. It was not to be. Not even close, so dark as coal it is this night. The plan was well executed. They went out as far as I was able to hear and beyond. Then back the same way. Again I learned as this was a first for me. Success in my book even without any replies. Back to the fire and then to bed.
Smokebender
Saturday, April 25, 2009
I was lazy yesterday when it came to starting up my truck to recharge the battery system. In this system the normal truck battery and a second camper battery are wired together and last night I drew from both for hours. Now my truck won't start. I would like to think had I been alone here I would not have overlooked the recharging. I say this not to shift blame, but to suggest that in the back of my mind I knew I had jumper cables with me, and that one of the guys would help. As a back up excuse this trip is only the second run using my new used truck camper. Testing the limits, ya that's it. I'll deal with this later. For now we're off to find the tower. The idea being to return to it after dark and call blast from the top.
I have never been totally fearless when it comes to heights. I recall a time when my knees became a tad weak as I looked over the edge at Hover Dam. Other friends and I climbed this tower years ago, and I have every intention to do so again. First we need to find it. It's on the map so no big deal. Brian and I joined Nelson in his 4x4 truck to begin the quest.
On the way out of camp we saw him again. Now the camp mascot, Jake the turkey. The tower is several miles away. A chance to see wildlife alone the way. It seems I must have been looking at the map bass ackwards because we zigged when we should have zagged and found ourselves at the witness tree.
The witness tree is a large red pine marked in June 1850 during the original land survey of Michigan. The tree diameter was eight inches at the time. The surveyor was William Burt. Burt Lake near Indian River had been named after his father W.A. Burt. I would say this tree is now about 2.5ft. in diameter. It looked the same to me as when I had last seen it back in the 1980's. It's good to see this old tree again and I'll bet it will be standing marking this spot 150 years from now. If one plants redwood trees they do so for future generations.
Back to the quest for the tower. Nelson may have lost faith in me because it was about this time he turned on his talking map thing. GPS they call it I guess. Some fun was yet to come when we left the road for an old logging track. As we climbed straight up a good sized hill I looked back to see the grin on Brian's face. Brian is a professional driver among other things. I'm thinking two tracking is somewhat new to him. You wouldn't know it based on the way he handled it later when Nelson said "You drive Brian" Good fun indeed. We never did find the tower. My guess is in this day of mega lawsuits the state may have removed it. I disappointing outcome, but a interesting tour.
After working our way back to camp it was time for lunch. Nelson and Brian left camp to hike their trail from last night. A good move in terms of looking for sign. I took advantage of being alone in camp and ran my truck to charge the system. Before they left Nelson had helped me by providing a jump. Now I was able to charge the system and they would not have to listen to my running truck. All charged and good to go in very little time. My drinking water is running low. Nice to have the two gallons Mick and Sass left for me.
I'm thinking now of what I may do when I'm alone in the forest again. The guys will be leaving in the morning for the other world. They returned to camp and Nelson and I decided to go fishing. Brian choosing to hang back and nap or read. Some quiet time alone in a forest is never a bad thing to have. Here we go once again, back to the flooding to fish. On the way we saw Jake again. Man this bird likes this spot. At Cornwall an eagle, the same one I wonder? No fish. This is a first for me. The fishing has always been good here in the past.
Just not ready yet to come up from the deep. We did see some bait fish. It was worth a try and no real loss as this was never really a fishing trip to begin with. Still with today being the trout opener we were off to the river to give it a go. Others were already fishing at Tin Bridge so we gave up the idea and tracked back to camp for some of Nelson's chili.
I said it before. Nelson's chile is second to none. This despite the fact that Nelson's wife had talked him in to leaving out some of the fire breathing ingredients he normally adds. Thank you Liz, you may have saved more than one life. So at the fire and as we ate the plan was made. First the elk field and then back to the flooding. Call blasting system in tow.
It was boots and saddles as Brian pulled Nelson's truck into the empty turn out just at the perfect time. What time you ask? Well 1/4 after naturally. 18 elk stood in the field.
We quietly exited the truck with field glasses in hand. That's binoculars to you Sass. The elk were somewhat apathetic to our approach. With my lame hip holding me back the others made their way out down and around to get close. And close they were in the end. 120ft. or less by the time their stalk ended and the elk ran off a short distance.
Nelson and I gave Brian a hard time as he drove us to the flooding. To his credit he was good about it. Just before leaving the elk field Brian let loose with some call blasts. The plan was to do the same at the flooding. We were the only ones at the flooding so Brian blasted away into the dusk. No replies were heard. Back to camp to build a fire.
The chainsaw buzzin we had several logs in no time. I set 5 or 6 logs on end in the pit and soon we had a major blaze. Some talk of a fall outing surrounded the fire then quite as we were all tired. The time had gone fast and I knew the others needed to leave in the morning. Given any chance to succeed I would have suggested they stay. Another very good day.
Smokebender
Sunday, April 26, 2009
When I stepped into the cool morning air Nelson and Brian were packing to leave. Back to the other world, the fast lane as they say. It would not surprise me at all to learn that at this moment we were all of like thinking. I wish we had more time. That was my thinking. Then after handshakes and few words they were gone. It's 9:00am as I stand here alone in a light rain. Very quiet in camp. I have work to do.
The forest takes on a primeval cast when I'm here alone. It's always been that way for me. Understand I like the feeling. The feeling of being very much alive is one way to word it. This was the MBG group camp site. The group is gone now. Time to move on. As I set to work policing the camp and putting out the fire my mind travels back to a different seven days. Seven days alone under the whispering pines.
In the fall of 1995 I was here in the forest. I had come up a week early to deer camp to enjoy the woods and wait for the others in my hunting party. Back then I had a travel trailer, just a small one, but nice. In all the years prior I used a tent. These were the many years of backpacking. Sometimes going in deep and never crossing my own trail. I miss going at it that way, to long in the tooth for that now.
Taking great care I made sure the campfire was cold and covered. This site work well for our purpose. One last thing. My scoped 22 rifle slipped from the case. Time to have at it. My target hanging from a tree limb in front of a rise in the ground, I opened fire. The 50 round clip slides in the ammo as fast as I can pull the trigger. Lots and lots of holes in a tight group and at a distance I am proud of. I love this rifle.
I've been fortunate in life to have been in a position to travel our country extensively. The wild places have always called to me. I speak the truth when I tell you that in all my travels I have never tasted water sweeter than that from the artisan well at Pine Grove Campground here in the forest. As I made my way out to the road suddenly I saw him. That stupid turkey is still here? See ya Jake.... I'm off to pine grove.
Creeping along now camera ready, looking hard and as far into the tress as possible. No other trucks on this road or the next for that matter. Making my way to the sweet water and campsite number three. I parked and got out to admire the pine that grows next to the well.
This old pine is over three feet in diameter. Now for the water, still cold and sweet. My canteen fills as I head over to the river to check the flow. All the rivers and streams are high now, just as one would expect this time of year. Lunch in the camper as the gallon jug slowly fills.
I could stay here tonight. It's a very nice spot, but then I never pay to camp. Call me tight if you like, but that's not it. It's just not my style.
Now I'm fishing Nelson style. After leaving Pine Grove I'm back on Webb rd. and this bridge they call Red. I stand on the bank casting the bait that Nelson most kindly left with me. I'm no trout fisherman that's for sure. I'm wishing Nelson were here to instruct me. The river is very high and very fast here. No luck yet, but I'm still trying as my mind returns to the tracks I had seen not far from here. The strange tracks and roadhouse Steve's hunting story, plus my old deer camp, all in the same area. That's where I'll spend the night. It's not far from here.
I missed it on the way in even as I have no problem finding the old camp now. It's so overgrown. Pines I remember at one foot tall now stand ten. The old trees look the same as I remember them and the sound, the whisper of the wind is most pleasant. A strong pine smell hits my face. I had seen the clear cut directly across the road from this old camp on my way into the forest days ago. I have parked in a way to be able to glass the clear cut from the camper later tonight. Now a hike back to the big trees at a place we called "The Island"
Let's see, 30/30 rifle, compass and my zippo lighter. Yep that's all I'll need for this hike. The island as we called it is some higher ground southeast of camp. The trees there are large, very large and full of life and good energy. As I stand among them they give me something I am just unable to put into words. I'll say this. I made a mistake. This is where the MBG camp should have been. What was I thinking?
I never said anything to the others about the tracks I'd seen near here that first day. I'm not sure why it worked out that way.
This is no place for me to be alone after dark. Time to hike back to my truck. I'll leave this place at sunrise. After seven days in the forest.
Written by
S.Forrest Gold
